11 Days in Croatia
Croatia holds a special place in my heart because it’s where Alex and I spent the vast majority of our honeymoon! Croatia has everything you could ask for - beautiful coastal towns, rich history, rolling mountainous landscapes, and amazing food. If this country isn’t on your bucket list, it should be. What I loved most about our time in Croatia is the fact that every day and every location offered a new set of surprises. One day we were hiking through waterfalls in a limestone canyon and the next we were swimming in the Adriatic Sea outside the walls of an ancient city. Of all the places I’ve been fortunate enough to travel over the years, Croatia is at the top of the list.
Itinerary
We were in Croatia for a total of eleven nights so we started on the north side of the country and worked our way down. We actually did a five day excursion to Slovenia before heading to Croatia (which I highly recommend), so depending on where you fly in, you may want to alter this itinerary to fit your schedule.
Rovinj - 2 Nights
Plitvice Lakes - 1 Night
Split - 2 Nights
Hvar (island) - 1 Night
Korčula (island) - 2 Nights
Dubrovnik - 3 Nights
Those who know me can attest to the fact that I like to be on the go when I travel. I like to relax and enjoy myself, but I also want to see as much as possible when I’m somewhere new. Knowing that, you may want to spend more time in certain locations and cut out others. If you’re like me, this itinerary worked perfectly.
As I mentioned, we came into Croatia from Slovenia which is why we started out in Rovinj. If you fly into Zagreb, I would recommend spending a night or two there (I’ve heard great things) before heading straight to the Plitvice Lakes. If you decide to end your trip in Dubrovnik, you can catch a cheap, direct flight from Dubrovnik to Zagreb. They run multiple times a day.
To get around, we used a combination of transfers, rental cars, catamarans, and Ubers. The great news is that since Croatia is small, it doesn’t take long to get from one location to another. I would not recommend keeping a rental car the entire duration of your trip. Many of the cities are small with tiny, twisting roads and it’s a hassle (and not needed) to take a car onto the islands.
Rovinj
We entered Croatia via the Istria region and made our first pit stop in Rovinj. Settled right on the coast, Rovinj is a cluster of old buildings crowded around a bell tower that stands tall in the middle of a small peninsula. On the north side of the peninsula, the houses drop straight into the sea, reminiscent of a miniature Venice. Just south of town, there’s a photogenic harbor that is bustling with activity. Rovinj seems much more relaxed and authentic in comparison to some southern Croatian cities. We never had to worry about huge cruise ships filled with tourists swarming the area!
Things to Do
Wander the cobblestone streets of Old Town.
Check out an amazing view from Velika Valdibora, a parking lot!
People watch in Tito’s Square - and grab a gelato while you’re at it!
Climb the bell tower at the Church of St. Euphemia for a bird’s eye view. Warning: the staircase is not for the faint of heart!
Swim and sunbathe at Mulini Beach - a quick bike ride five minutes from Old Town!
Grab dinner at La Puntulina. Afterwards, enjoy the view with a cocktail on the cliffs.
Take a sailboat cruise around nearby islands.
We stayed in an AirBnB that was a ten minute walk outside the city, but if you have the chance, try to stay right within the Old Town. That’s where all the magic happens.
Plitvice Lakes
We almost didn’t go to the Plitvice Lakes, and boy, that would have been a mistake. I’ve seen quite a few waterfalls over the years, but nothing compares to these 16 terraced lakes, laced together by cascading falls and miles of plank walks.
We rented a car and drove from Rovinj to the national park on our own. Croatian roads are easy to navigate and we actually enjoyed the three hour drive through mountainous valleys, small towns, grape vineyards, and apple orchards. You’ll know you’re getting close to the park when you start seeing signs for seemingly hundreds of Bed & Breakfasts.
We only spent one night in Plitvice and that was more than enough time. We arrived in the late afternoon and did the Lower Lakes that evening. The next morning, we woke up and did the Upper Lakes. If you’re there in peak season, make sure to get to the park as soon as it opens. The crowds get worse and worse as the day progresses. If you’re crunched for time, stick to the Lower Lakes. They are much more impressive.
One thing to note is to not let the weather get in your way. The microclimate conditions in the park differ from those of the surrounding areas so it can get wet. The first day we arrived, it was raining, but we bought ponchos from a gift shop and decided to make an adventure out of it. The rain stopped within fifteen minutes and we practically had the whole park to ourselves! It was perfect.
Split
Since Split is a major port city, a lot of people are in a hurry to get to the islands and don’t take the time to experience Split’s charm and amazing history. The entire Old Town is built in the remains of Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient residence built for a Roman emperor at the turn of the fourth century AD. Alex and I loved getting lost in the winding streets inside the city walls and seeing modern day businesses built alongside ancient ruins.
Things to Do
Take a walking tour. This is a MUST, especially if you’re into history!
Hike up to Marjan Hill. There are a few vantage points on your way to the top that you don’t want to miss.
People watch in the Peristyle - Rent a cushion for extra comfort!
Climb to the top of the Cathedral of St. Domnius.
Explore Diocletian’s Cellars. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, several scenes were filmed here.
Visit Jupiter’s Temple. The ticket to the Cathedral of St. Domnius should get you into this temple.
Take a stroll through People’s Square.
Grab dinner in the Sperun neighborhood to eat where the locals eat.
On our way from the Plitvice Lakes to Split, we stopped in Trogir for lunch. Trogir is an adorable island, connected to the mainland by a small bridge. If you’re looking for a pit stop, it’s a great place to grab a bite to eat at one of the outdoor cafes on the promenade and wander the side streets.
We dropped off our rental car in Split as soon as we arrived and that would be my recommendation to anyone arriving in the same manner. You do not want to deal with parking (or driving for that matter) once you’re in the city. Furthermore, if you’re following the outlined itinerary above, you will not need a car for the rest of the journey.
In Split, we stayed in an AirBnB right outside the city walls. If you can find somewhere within Diocletian’s Palace that is reasonable, that would be my recommendation.
Hvar
Once you step foot in Hvar Town, you almost expect to see celebrities sunbathing on their yachts in the harbor. It’s a beautiful island with all the glitz and glamour you would expect from its reputation as a destination for the rich and famous. The town features a wide promenade lined with cafes, white washed houses with red tile roofs sprawling out in every direction, and a beautiful fortress nestled in the hillside above town.
Things to Do
Hike up to the fortress for a panoramic view of the entire harbor.
People watch in St. Stephen’s Square.
Take a taxi boat out to one of the remote islands for an afternoon swim. Just beware of the nude beaches!
Have dinner on the steps outside of Black Pepper.
To get to the islands from the mainland, I would highly recommend taking one of the fast catamarans. In comparison to the ferries, you get there in half the time and can pre-book tickets. We used Krilo Catamaran and had a great experience. Just make sure to reserve your tickets in advance because they can sell out pretty quickly. Once we arrived, our AirBnB host picked us up from the bus station. We stayed right within Hvar Town and loved the convenience. If we had more time, we would have loved to explore Stari Grad, but it didn’t make sense with our schedule.
We spent one night in Hvar, and had a great time. However, if you'd like a bit more time to relax, I would recommend skipping Hvar and going straight to Korčula. Korčula offers everything that Hvar does, but is more quaint, more beautiful, and offers a lot more to do.
Korčula
I left a little bit of my heart in Korčula. It is an absolutely stunning island that I hope to return to again and again. The Old Town, simply named Korčula Town, is a cluster of red tiled houses held together by an exterior medieval wall and anchored by the Cathedral of Saint Mark. Accessed via a stone bridge, the town is surrounded by turquoise waters and guarded by the mountainous Pelješac peninsula. Korčula Town is often called “Little Dubrovnik” due to its structure, but the feel is entirely different than that of its more well-known counterpart. If you’re looking for relaxation, look no further.
Korčula Town is the star of the show, but the rest of the island shouldn’t be missed. As the sixth largest island in the Adriatic, Korčula is rich in grape vineyards, olive groves, quaint villages, and small sandy beaches.
Things to Do
Wander the streets of Korčula Town
Climb to the top of the Cathedral of Saint Mark for an amazing view
Go swimming in Lumbarda (great for those who prefer sand over pebble beaches)
Have breakfast at one of the cafes that line the top of the fortress walls
Go wine tasting at Bire Winery, a family run establishment in a beautiful location.
Eat the best seafood of your life at Gavuni in Lumbarda. The “whole fish” is divine.
Go snorkeling in the waters surrounding Korčula Town.
We spent two nights in Korčula, but if I had to do it again, I would skip Hvar and spend three nights in Korčula. It’s much more relaxing and, in my opinion, more beautiful. With that said, if you’re looking for a party, you don’t want to miss Hvar.
The AirBnB we stayed at in Korčula was a 10/10. Check it out here. The apartment was clean and spacious, the location was unbeatable, and the sunset views from our balcony were spectacular. If this particular AirBnB is not available, I would just recommend trying to find something in a similar location. Stay to the west of the Old Town and try to get a sea front view. Trust me, it’s worth paying a little extra. As a bonus, most of the apartments in this area have private swimming areas.
Dubrovnik
You can’t go to Croatia without hitting the magical city of Dubrovnik. I’m always a little weary of destinations that are as popular as Dubrovnik, but it did not disappoint. Walking through the Old Town, you feel as if you’re on a movie set which shouldn’t be surprising considering it has served as the back drop to many famous movies and shows. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you know that most of the Kings Landing scenes were filmed in Dubrovnik. I can attest that the city looks just as beautiful in person as it does on your TV screen (though has considerably less violence).
Things to Do
Go on a walking tour. This is a must! There is so much history in Dubrovnik and it will make you appreciate what you’re seeing that much more.
Take the cable car to the top of Mount Srd. Once to the top, leave the cable car building and walk down the footpath to get the best view!
People watch in Luža Square.
Take a stroll down the Stradun promenade which runs through the heart of the Old Town.
Walk the City Walls. Try to get there as early as possible to avoid the crowds (especially if it’s peak season). Another way to avoid crowds is to start at the entrance near the Old Port.
Get a drink at Buža Bar. There are actually two of these, but the original is the best. Clinging to the outermost part of a city wall, nothing beats the atmosphere!
Take a sailboat cruise around Lokrum island.
Climb up to the Fort of St. Lawrence for an amazing view. Your ticket to the City Walls will get you in!
We spent three nights in Dubrovnik, but during one of the days, took an excursion to the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro (see post here). Having two full days was enough time, but we were on the go from dawn until dusk. For a more relaxing visit, I would recommend giving yourself three full days for exploration. If you can find an affordable option, try to stay within the City Walls. Alternatively, there are a lot of options on the side of Mount Syd which is where our AirBnB was located. The location has positives and negatives. The views of the Old Town are amazing, but the walk to and from town is a workout.
Pro Tip: Check the cruise ship schedule. If there are going to be multiple cruise ships in the area one day, consider getting out of town. Alternatively, just be sure you explore in the early morning or in the late afternoon to avoid the crowds.
If you’re thinking about making a trip to Croatia or already have plans of doing so, you will not be disappointed. It’s a truly magical place. Still have questions? Let me know in the comments!
Related Articles: A Day Trip to Montenegro
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